Such is the atmosphere of the melancholy valley of Glencoe that it still seems to be haunted by what happened there so long ago on that fatal day of 13 February 1692 when 38 members of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by government forces billeted with them. The friendly and unsuspecting villagers were slaughtered at five o’ clock in the morning, on the grounds that their chief Alasdair MacDonald, known as MacIain, had been too late to  pledge allegiance to the new monarchs, William III of England and II of Scotland and Mary II.

Glen Coe West Highland Way Wikipedia

Many more innocent people, young and old, were alleged to have died of exposure while trying to escape in the dark and cold mountains of Glen Coe during a particularly harsh winter…

Mountains of Glen Coe Two Sisters © 2007 Scotiana

Glen Coe is the first place which struck our imagination in Scotland and it will stay in our memory forever. Impossible for us to travel in this fascinating country without paying a visit to the beautiful and melancholy valley which is one of the most popular sites in the Highlands of Scotland and one of our favourite places in the country.

We discovered the place on the second day of our first journey in Scotland, in June 2000. We had started from our B&B near Paisley after a good Scottish breakfast and a cheerful chat with the friendly gentleman farmer who owned the B&B and had worked for the famous local cotton mills. We headed north in the direction of Fort William where we had booked a room for the night. We took the A 898, crossed the river Clyde at Erskine Bridge and followed the A 82 up to Fort William. The weather was fine and the spring atmosphere luminous and fresh with foxgloves and wild flowers flourishing everywhere on each side of the road. We passed Dumbarton with its emblematic rock, drove along Loch Lomond, only scintillating reflections between the trees, could get but a frustrating glimpse of Ben Lomond before entering the more austere and mountainous landscape of the Highlands : the bridge of Orchy,  Rannoch Moor… no need to say that each name conjures up myriads of memories collected during our eight journeys in Scotland… and suddenly it was Glen Coe…

Glen Coe mountains and bridge © 2007 Scotiana

Each time we arrive there we feel irresistibly attracted by the mountains of Glen Coe and hardly have we got out of the car that we run the steep slope down to the lovely bridge which crosses the river Coe running turbulent waters under the shade of beautiful  rowans.

Then, and whatever the weather, we climb up the very narrow and stony path winding its way amidst majestic mountains up to the summit.

Glencoe cobbled path © 2006 Scotiana

It’s worth the effort even if, like me, you are terribly afraid of heights for the fabulous panoramic views unfolding before your eyes will make you voiceless.

Glen Coe mountain path © 2007 Scotiana

The very changing weather can give the whole place a dramatic atmosphere…

The dark mountains of Glen Coe and luminous reflections of the river Coe © 2007 Scotiana

The atmosphere of the place perfectly suits the sad history of Glencoe but of this history we knew nothing at the beginning. When I learned about it, some time later, I could not but be stunned by the strange feeling of awe and mystery I’ve always felt there, a haunting and melancholy feeling…

Below are just a few notes to try and replace the story in its historical context but I have already written about it in previous posts :

“Le feu couve” : a war of succession to the British throne, a growing opposition to the Stuart dynasty, a religious conflict between Protestants and Catholics… are at the origin of a conflict which had begun long before 1692 and would last long after the fatal day of 13 February of the same year. Below are just a few dates to try and replace the “Massacre of Glencoe” in its historical context.

6 February 1685 : death of the Stuart catholic king Charles II who is succeeded on the British throne by James VII of Scotland and II of England.

10 June 1688 : birth of James Francis Edward, son of James VII of Scotland and II of England. The birth of a catholic heir caused widespread civil disorder in Scotland, a growing opposition to the Stuart dynasty and fear of catholic supremacy. Indeed, James Francis Edward, nicknamed the “Old Pretender” will attempt, without success however, to gain the throne of Great Britain during the Jacobite rising of 1715.

23 December 1688 : deposition of James VII of Scotland and II of England during the so-called “Glorious Revolution” and exile in France

February 1689, after they had been offered the throne by the Convention Parliament, irregularly summoned by William of Orange, Mary (daughter of James VII of Scotland and II or England and Ireland)  and her Dutch husband become co-regents over the kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland.

Jacobite uprising : 1689-1692

13 February 1692: Massacre of Glencoe

This video will tell you more :

After the Massacre of Glencoe – oil on canvas by Scottish painter Peter Graham (1836-1921 )

Let us remember…

Á bientôt. Mairiuna